A Kuleeth Life .. कुळीथांचे जीवनगाणे

Kulthaacha Pithla , a preparation of Kuleeth or Horse gram as it is called , is a very traditional preparation from Kokan, best enjoyed with fragrant freshly steamed rice , along with some more traditional stuff like roasted Poha Papads, fried solar dried stuffed mirchis, and even dahi , playing a mature peacemaker amidst all the strong stuff. 

My friend Deepa Godbole Joshi who blogs at Foodlyrics  , posted this very nostalgic entry  with a photograph , of Kulthaacha Pithla ,  on the Facebook page of Angat Pangat, a group dedicated to rediscovering Traditional Maharashtrian Cuisine.

I have memories from my childhood , of the flavours emanating from my family kitchen as the Kuleeths were roasted, and then folks gently grinding them by hand by a stone set of grinding wheels operated by two people sitting in  a large balcony , singing some typical ballads.   Then a fragrant kuleeth pithla enjoyed with hand pounded rice or Jowar Bhakri, amidst a spicy crunch of Poha papad and fried mirchis; and a meal ending with cool fresh buttermilk .


History says that Shivaji Maharaj  used to drink a large bowlful of gruel made from Kuleeth Flour before setting out on his campaigns.  They used to call them Hulge.   

You know what he achieved.

I guess all we ordinary folks can do is dream ..... 

आपल्या गावचे तांदूळ राव देशावर जातात काय आणि कोकणची आठवण येउन त्याना लोकं आंबेमोहोर म्हणतात काय , असा विचार करतच पिशवीतल्या कुळीथान मध्ये कुजबूज सुरु. मग आंबोळी घाटावरून कोल्हापूरमार्गे पुण्यात, आणि मग केलेलं भाताचे व्रत … स्वतःला एखाद्या लोखंडी कधी मध्ये मंद आचेवर भाजून घेणे , जेणे करून दोन मजले खाली लोक वासाने हवालदिल होतील . मग एका सुपात विश्रांती , आणि एका संगीतमय जात्यात स्वतःचे झालेले बारीक ओवीबद्ध संस्कारित पीठ. कुळीथाची कुणकुण लागताच एका कुकर मध्ये हर्षभराने फुलून येणारा आंबेमोहोर भात, आतुरतेने वाट बघतो , आणि एकिकडे कुळीथाचा शृंगार सुरु… एका काळ्या लोखंडी कढईत तळप्णारे तेल, त्यात खळ्बळत उसळ्णार्या मोहर्या , "आलेच" असं म्हणत हिंगाला घेउन स्वतःला झोकून देणार्या लाल चुटूक ओठान्सार्ख्या मिरच्या , त्यांच्या मागे मागे जाणारे बारीक चिरलेले कांदे, आणि सर्वानवर लक्ष ठेउन , योग्य वेळी आपली पर्यवेक्षकी भूमिका विसरून, आत पडणार्या लसुणा…. "ये ग ", म्हणत कोकमा ला धरून आत पडणारे पाणी , आणि कढईत सगळ्याना फुटलेल्या आनंदाच्या उकळ्या . एकिकडे वाफ़ाळत ताटात पोचलेला आतुरतेने वाट बघणारा भात, एकिकडे हळु हळु कढईत पडत आपला शृंगार समाप्त करत कुळीथा , भुर्भूर्लेले मीठ , आणि सरते शेवटी डाव मामांबरोबर ताटात भाताच्या गावी पोचलेली कुळीथा . ताटकळत भाजून निघालेले पोहेपापड , तळलेल्या सांडगी मिरच्या आणि शांतीस्वरूप दही , एकिकडे वाट बघतात आणि भात्कुळीथ मिलन पाहून म्हणतात , " किती दिवस वाट पाहतायत दोघे , त्यांना थोडा आणखीन वेळ देउ आणि मग जाउ भेटायला , हो कि नाही ?…"

So many Kuleeths in a cloth bag discussing and gossiping about Tandul Rao emigrating to the Plains, and being called AmbeMohor, in honor of his native Kokan. And so they traverse to the plains at Amboli and  mobilize to do the Vow of the Rice... A gentle but firm roasting in a cast iron kadhai, flavours emanating to the street below, a quiet cooling rest, and then a powdery crush amidst some Ballads of the Hand Grinding Wheel... The rice, excited by the arrival of the Kuleethas , puffed and steaming with joy, unaware of the preparations of Lady Kuleethas . Hot agitated Oil, Bursting mustard seeds , and shapely lip shaped Red Mirchis throwing themselves in with the Hing types; the finely chopped gossiping onions, quietly falling in, and the Garlic monitor finally making its entry, having completed its in-charge duties. An understanding Waterwoman joining in, along with some Kokam kids, and everyone erupting inside in a joyous boiling.... A bit of final salting, and the Kuleetha, now a beautiful Pithla, gets escorted as per tradition by a maternal Ladle Uncle to meet a stunned steaming rice waiting in the plate. Roasted Poha Papads, Fried Saandgi Mirchis and a quiet peaceful accommodating Dahi , watch the meeting and decide to wait a bit ; after all, as they said , "They've waited to meet for so long, why grudge them a few minutes more na ? "